There are just so many restaurants in Rio de Janeiro and you might easily be lured into tourist traps. If you want to eat like a local, check out these 10 traditional eateries hand-picked from our free Rio de Janeiro city guide, momondo places.
Escondidinho
Escondidinho literally means ‘little hidden thing’ – and if you weren’t looking for it you would probably walk past without giving this no-frills restaurant a second glance. Entering feels like quite the discovery, the simple aluminium doors give no hint of the delights waiting inside.
The menu is full of Brazilian classics, and one dish in particular has made this place locally famous – ‘Costela’, tender beef ribs cooked for five hours in a rich sauce and served with wilted watercress and fried manioc. The portions are very generous, but save space for dessert and revel in the spectacular ‘Mineiro com Botas’, a flambéed mixture of cheese, bananas, guava, Cointreau, and brandy.
The restaurant is open only during weekdays and serves lunch between 11:00-16:00.
Where: Beco dos Barbeiros, 12
Tel: +55 21 2242 2234
Nearest station: Carioca
Aprazível
Utterly exotic and downright outstanding, family-run Aprazível, located on the hillside neighbourhood of Santa Teresa, combines great food with a distinctive decór and breathtaking views.
Apazível has a wonderful tropical feel, being placed among native trees and old buildings with grass-thatched roofs. For a unique and romantic dining experience, go for a tree house table and revel in the best views over Rio. The menu is a smorgasbord of Brazilian classics such as ‘Moqueca’ – a delicious seafood stew, ‘Palmito Assado’ – whole roast palm heart, and wonderful fruity cocktails.
Aprazível is quite popular, so remember to book well ahead. It won’t be cheap, but then again – when is your next chance to eat in a tree house?
Where: Rua Aprazível, 62
Tel: +55 21 2508 9174
Getting there: Bus 006/007 to Rua Almirante Alexandrino próximo, stop 35
Angu do Gomes
Back in the 1950s, João Gomes had a great idea. He had just learned the family recipe for the rich and satisfying ‘Angu à Baiana’ – soft polenta served with a meaty stew, and he decided to sell this delicious dish from carts all over the city. In 1977 Gomes gave up the carts and opened the restaurant Angu do Gomes in the crumbling beauty of Largo de São Francisco da Prainha.
Today, customers still crowd at the tables outside this unpretentious restaurant to eat Angu, often accompanied by loud music from nearby street parties. As well as the eponymous dish, the menu also offers ‘bolinhos de feijoada’, dumplings filled with black-bean and pork stew, and a mean caipirinha. The restaurant is closed on Sundays.
Where: Rua Sacadura Cabral, 75
Tel: +55 21 2233 4561
Nearest station: Presidente Vargas
Porcão Rio’s
In the shadow of the Sugarloaf Mountain discover the city’s best ‘churrascaria’ – traditional Brazilian barbecue – known for delicious servings of sizzling barbecued beef, pork and chicken and a marvellous view.
Porcão uses the ‘rodizio’ system, the Brazilian concept of all-you-can-eat. Once you’ve paid the fixed price, bow-tied waiters come around your table with a giant plate of roasted meats on huge skewers; you then either choose some slices, or wait a few minutes for another cut of meat to make the rounds. Vegetarians are also welcome here: the flat price includes an excellent buffet with salads, sushi, and pasta and rice dishes.
Though present in three other locations – including one in Ipanema – Porcão’s Rio joint with its nearly floor-to-ceiling windows offering a breath-taking view of the sunset over Guanabara Bay, should be your top choice branch.
Where: Av. Infante Dom Henrique, S/N
Tel: +55 21 3521 2900
Nearest station: Flamengo
Read more: 9 unmissable sightseeing spots in Rio
Bar da Frente
This restaurant’s name means ‘the bar in front of’, which is a direct reference to its better-known neighbour across the road, Aconchego Carioca. While it is true that it catches some overflow from its busy famous neighbour, Bar da Frente is worth a visit in its own right.
This mid-sized, one-room bar serves delicious Brazilian comfort food in a cosy environment with deep orange walls and simple wooden furniture. Winner of the prestigious 2014 Comida di Buteco bar food award, the menu includes tasty snacks like ‘fofinho de camarão’ – large shrimp in creamy sauce, encased in fluffy cassava deep-fried batter.
Where: Rua Barão de Iguatemi, 388
Tel: +55 21 2502 0176
Nearest station: Estácio
Bar Varnhagen
Opened in 1944, Bar Varnhagen goes back to a time when Rio wasn’t the tourist magnet and the mega-events host it is today. This place is often filled with old locals who’ve been coming here for decades.
The simple interior is decorated with iconic blue and white tiles, and shelves lined with bottles of the local sugarcane-based spirit, cachaça. The menu is full of classic Brazilian bar food such as ‘rabada com agrião’ – slow roast oxtail with watercress, and excellent ‘bolinhos de bacalhau’ – cod fritters.
If you’re on a budget, the ‘prato feito’ – daily special for one – is a cheap and tasty option.
Where: Praça Varnhagen, 14 A
Tel: +55 21 2254 3062
Nearest station: São Francisco Xavier
Nova Capela
In his mid-sixties, Edio Simões Régis has been a waiter at Nova Capela since the restaurant opened more than 40 years ago. He tried retiring a few years ago, but only lasted a couple of months before he was drawn back to the restaurant. He is just one example among many: Nova Capela is known for having some of the best waiters in the city.
Dressed in smart white jackets, the waiters are just one part of the magic that makes this classic, old-time eatery legendary. Highlights on the menu are the cod fishcakes ‘bolinhos de bacalhau’, plus the roast lamb served with broccoli rice and heavenly roast potatoes.
The steady flow of daytime customers increases exponentially when late night revellers from the nearby bars and clubs get hungry.
Where: Avenida Mem de Sá, 96
Tel: +55 21 2252 6228
Nearest station: Cinelândia
Read more: The buzzy nightlife of Rio de Janeiro
Antigamente
At Antigamente food and music go hand in hand; on Tuesdays (from 7:00pm) and Saturdays (from 2:30pm) a band takes over one of the tables outside this little restaurant and plays samba or choro, the popular instrumental Brazilian music.
Situated on Rua do Ouvidor, a pedestrianised alleyway dripping with history and charm, Antigamente offers Brazilian classics like ‘Oswaldo Aranha’ – fillet steak with crispy garlic topping, and ‘Costela no Bafo’ – slow-cooked beef rib.
Owner Carlinhos, a bohemian passionate about samba, is often around to look after his clientele. Other lively bars nearby add to the festive atmosphere on Saturdays. The restaurant is closed on Sundays.
Where: Rua do Ouvidor, 43
Tel: +55 21 2507 5040
Nearest station: Uruguaiana
Forneria Santa Filomena
Forneria Santa Filomena is part of what is fast becoming a foodie oasis in the neighbourhood of Praça da Bandeira. Just a stone’s throw from eateries like Aconchego Carioca, Bar da Frente and Botto Bar, you’ll find this bright, modern restaurant offering a fusion of Italian and Brazilian cuisine.
The interior has a clean, modern design, with high ceilings and white walls decorated with bold splashes of colour. On the menu you’ll find Brazilian comfort food such as ‘empadas’ – pastry pie the size of a muffin – as well as a generous sprinkling of Italian dishes, from pizza to pasta, risotto and a huge array of bruschettas.
Don’t miss out on the delicious desserts: go for the black beer ice-cream with dark Belgian chocolate brownie.
Where: Rua Santa Filomena, 10
Tel: +55 21 3518 2053
Nearest station: Estácio
Majórica
A popular spot among locals, Majórica is packed with families during the weekend and business people during the week. This ‘churrascaria’ – steakhouse – was opened back in 1963, and nothing seems to have changed since.
The décor is rather dated, with dark wooden beams and old paintings, but all this won’t matter after you taste the food. After you’ve been shown to your table, ask your waiter to see the meat, and you’ll be led to a glass-topped counter. Here you can ogle beautiful fat steaks from Brazil and Argentina, and also see the enormous charcoal grill where your chosen beef will be cooked to perfection.
The portions are huge, so unless you have a big appetite, a main course can usually be shared between two.
Where: Rua Senador Vergueiro, 11/15
Tel: +55 21 2205 6820
Nearest station: Flamengo
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