Watch the scenery change through the open doors in a slowly moving local train or through the windows of a packed bus. Whether you are headed to India for the first time or are an experienced India-goer, an expedition on the roads, rails, and waters of India is a must. From Goa to the southern tip of Kerala, let the country’s cultural and natural diversity overwhelm you with momondo ambassador, Laura Santanen‘s, guide to her favourite destinations in Western and Southern India.
Goa
Hit the beach
A perfect introduction to India is a stroll along Palolem beach © Laura Santanen
Southern Goa is a chilled-out paradise and a perfect base camp for exploring both the jungle and the beaches. Palolem is a popular choice for travellers looking for a busy beach lined with many restaurant choices. Vendors will walk along the beach offering you souvenirs from the local spice shops and garment shops. Live music from the cafés animates the beach day and night. If you’re loving Palolem, but want a nearby peaceful break, Butterfly Beach is a secluded beach, accessible by boat. When the trees are in bloom, the beach is populated with a colourful array of butterflies, hence its name.
More laid-back alternatives are Patnem or Agoda beach where few lounge chairs and umbrellas can be found. The pristine nature grows wildly, exposing the blue bays and dense forests along the shore. Rent a surfboard at the Agonda beach, perfect especially for beginners, or sign up at one of the many yoga schools in Patnem.
As for accommodation, just remember that bargaining is acceptable. If you plan to stay longer in one place, you can negotiate the price to go down quite a bit.
Recommended hotel: Simrose (rates start at 4,908 INR [£58] per room, per night)
Rent a scooter and head inland
The deeper you go inland in Goa, the better the roads become © Laura Santanen
Strap on your helmet and rev your engine – it’s time to explore India by scooter! First and foremost, you’ll need a valid two-wheeler license. There are many bike rental services so pick the one most convenient for you, however, make sure your rental scooter has an official license plate (it should be yellow with black text) and includes a proper helmet. The gravel roads along the beaches aren’t in great condition, so you can expect a bumpy ride. As you head inland, however, the road conditions improve and the traffic is almost non-existent (except for the occasional crossing of water buffaloes or cows).
The deeper into the jungle you get, the quieter the roads become. Ride about 80 kilometres east from Palolem to explore the Kali Tiger Reserve. What awaits beyond the trees are waterfalls and swimming holes amid a lush landscape. If you’re quiet and careful, you might spot a leopard – the king in this part of the jungle.
Just outside the National Park, the family-run Tanshikar Spice Farm offers great lunch and an interesting glimpse into the world of spices and Indian cooking. A pre-booking is recommended as the capacity for accommodation and food is limited.
On the train towards Kerala
All aboard! School boys wave goodbye as travellers board the overnight train to Kerala © Laura Santanen
Hop aboard the Madgaon Ernakulam Junction Express, the night train that leaves from Margao (the Goan capital) towards Kerala. The distance to cover is over 800 kilometres, so, if you are looking for a bit of comfort, reserve a bed in Sleeper Class to catch some shut-eye during this 15-hour trip. Cleartrip is a convenient way to book train trips in India, giving you the chance to decide beforehand how much privacy or comfort you need.
A night spent in the bunk beds on the Indian railways is a night to remember. Do make sure to bring your earplugs, unless you want to experience the loud noises all night long. In the sleeping compartment, you will be offered clean sheets to use and a blanket.
There will be plenty of people passing by the compartments, selling samosas or other local delicacies. Once the aroma fills the air, and the vendor shouts “chai!chai!” it is not easy to say no to a cup of this sweet tea, especially when it costs 10 INR [10p].
Through Karnataka
Yogis galore in Mysore, founding grounds of Ashtanga Vinyasa Yoga © David Kuba
To split the long stretch, hop off the train half way in between Goa and Kerala. Here you’ll find the city of Mysore – the Mecca of yoga. The epicentre of Ashtanga Vinyasa Yoga, it was the home of K. Pattabhi Jois, the founder of Ashtanga Vinyasa and one of two men (the other being Mr Iyengar) generally known for making yoga popular in the West. Needless to say, there is no shortage of yoga schools in the area.
The state of Karnataka also encompasses the beach destination Gokarna. Here you’ll find a chilled-out scene, where bamboo huts line the waterfront. Gokarna is also a famous pilgrimage town with ancient temples like the Hindu Mahabaleshwar Temple attracting many devotees throughout the year, looking to be blessed by the deities.
Recommended hotel: Namaste Yoga Farm (rates start at 4,304 INR [£51] per room, per night)
Welcome to Kerala
Hold on tight as you speed through the busy streets of Kochi aboard a tuk-tuk © Laura Santanen
A good starting point in Kerala when heading south is the city of Kochi. Cruise around the bustling centre via a tuk-tuk ride from nearby Ernakulam, the mainland part of Kochi. Many of the tuk-tuks have a metre, so make sure the driver uses it or get a fixed price before leaving so as not to be surprised by the final fare price.
Ask the tuk-tuk driver to take you to Fort Kochi – although you’ll bump into many visitors here, a walk along the seaside promenade is worth it, especially if you’re a fan of street art. Some of these street murals have been painted during the Kochi-Muziris Biennale in 2014.
Sip a coffee at one of the coffee shops, watching pedestrians and tuk-tuks dodge the stray goats on the roads (they are everywhere). In the harbour, watch the local fishermen catch fish in the 14th-century Chinese fishing nets. If you wish to photograph the picturesque fishing activity be aware that the fishermen might want a coin or two for the photo.
Recommended hotel: Old Harbour Hotel Kochi (rates start at 12,080 INR [£144] per room, per night)
Cruising on the backwaters
Your very own houseboat for a cruise on the quiet backwaters © Laura Santanen
The highlight of any trip to Kerala is a ride on the backwaters, aboard a traditional Kettuvallam boat. Originally the boats were used as grain barges to import rice – nowadays the houseboats serve more as floating homestays. As you peacefully float along the palm-lined canals, get a privileged front-row seat to the daily lives of the locals.
The five large lakes of the Kerala backwaters area are connected by both man-made and natural canals. There are hundreds of houseboats, built from bamboo fibre, floating on the waters every single day. The starting point for most of the boat trips is the city called Alleppey (known locally as Alappuzha). Most of them will leave around 11am, so if travelling without a booking, be there on time to compare prices and find the boat most suitable for your needs.
Float past the charming and slow-paced life by the water near Alappuzha © ReflectedSerendipity
Most of the houseboats offer day cruises, overnight cruises or two-day cruises. Due to government regulations, the boats cannot move after dark, and this can be a bit disappointing if you spend the night on board docked near the departure point. If you are really looking for a cruise away from the crowds and in silence, take a two-day-cruise.
The ever growing popularity of these cruises has had an impact on the ecosystem of the waters. Furthermore, certain boats are owned by large, tourism-led companies. As an eco-conscious choice, do your research in advance to go towards boats that advertise themselves as eco-friendly, and, if possible, that are privately owned, benefitting the local economy.
The cost of a two-night cruise can range anywhere between 4000-13000 INR (£48 – £150) per boat. The cost includes staff, main meals, small snacks and drinks (besides alcohol). Usually, the second floor of the boat is a private space, where the staff is not allowed to enter. You will most often get a private cabin with a private toilet and in-room air-conditioning. You could also settle for a cruise aboard a chakara (a much smaller boat) – a cheaper option to cruise the smaller canals where more local life can be seen.
A touch of spirituality and wellness
Kerala is often referred to as God’s own country. Tourism is largely focused on spiritual and wellness travel, from yoga and meditation to Ayurvedic treatments. A visit to the birthplace of Amma, one of the world’s most well-known, female spiritual leaders, can be an interesting stop on the way. Amma’s ashram (Indian monastery), Amritapuri, schedules many different activities, religious and non-religious, welcoming all types of visitors, based on the ancient Indian ideal “the whole world is one family.”
Read more about Amma: In the footsteps of 7 men and women who inspire courageous travel
Wildlife around Munnar
Mystery across the tea plantations in Munnar © Ravi Pinisetti
The inner part of Kerala is home to amazing wildlife and nature. If you sleep in a treehouse, you can try to spot tigers or elephants. Munnar is a beautiful hill station and town, located around 1600 metres above sea level. It was once the summer resort of the British Government in South India and is now one of the region’s most attractive nature destinations. Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary in southern Kerala is known for tigers, and the Eravikulam National Park for many other mammals (including the endangered, goat-like Nilgiri Tahr), birds and butterflies.
The lush, green tea plantations near the towns of Munnar and the less visited Wayanad are ideal for trekking. For the avid hikers, conquer the Anamudi Peak, the highest peak in Southern India (2700 metres).
Recommended hotel: The Tall Trees (rates start at 6,836 INR [£81] per room, per night)
Chilling out in Varkala
Life by the cliff in Varkala is all about yoga, surf and relaxing
The beautiful beach city of Varkala is easily accessible by a four-hour bus ride from the Alleppey bus station. The transport is rudimentary so do not expect a fancy bus or even a seat. Varkala cliff is a popular destination within Varkala where travellers from all over the world come in search of yoga retreats and darling boutique hotels. From here, it is easy to explore the nearby areas by scooter, train or bus.
The long, not overly crowded beach of Varkala is ideal for swimming. The waves hit the shallow beach, making it also popular among beginner surfers.
Recommended hotel: The Varkala Beach Resort & Ayurveda Spa (rates start at 2,173 INR [£26] per room, per night)
In need of extra relaxation?
For those with more time in Southern India, maybe you can tack on a trip to a few paradise islands. Whether you choose the luxurious Lakshadweep islands just outside Kerala (about 5 hours away), fly to the beautiful Andaman Islands between Thailand and India, or head to the atolls of the Maldives, turquoise waters, white sandy beaches, and snorkelling opportunities await.
